Italy keeps pulling regions and grapes out of it collective hat, faster and faster as the rising awareness of its vinous history drives curiosity and a desire for the authentic wines of the country. Roberto is the third generation of Trappolinis to run this family-held vineyard in eastern Lazio. When Roberto’s grandfather established the vineyard in the 1960s, the Italian export market was dominated by large houses growing international varieties of grape, but he concentrated on the local Lazian grapes: Grechetto, Aleatico, Cenereto, Sangiovese. Originally also a bulk wine producer, under Roberto’s father the Trappolinis shifted their focus to quality, estate-bottled wines. Lazio, dominated by Rome, has been the slowest of Italian wine regions to reassert itself, but with wines like this Grechetto representing, its reputation can’t help but rise. Medium-bodied, with a floral nose and acacia overtones, it’s a light quaffer with lemon citrus zip, a little fleshiness of apricot and persimmon, and the honeydew melon so often found in Grechetto. As in so much of central Italy, volcanic influence in the soil imparts a slight smokiness that darkens the tone and lends a pleasant background to the fruit. Balanced with acidity that keeps everything fresh, it’s a bracing wine perfect for an evening glass.
Pairing: Pair it with asparagus risotto, seared calamari, or a tricolore salad.
VARIETY: GRECHETTO BIANCO
REGION: Lazio, ITALY